Wednesday, 18 December 2013

"Leggins" (gaiters) and riding breeches (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

  "Leggins" (gaiters) and riding breeches (1897)

 



 The "leggins" are gaiters, a protective garment covering the shoe and calf - the leggins and breeches blocks are apart of a riding ensemble, the rest of which I omitted. FYI "spats" ("spatter dashes") are indeed basically the lower half of the leggins or gaiters, but they include a strap for under the instep and are to protect from spatters.

My sincere good wishes to those attempting the above instructions, I tried and quite failed. That was the beginning of this year though so in all likelihood an attempt at this point would turn out way better.
Here's a pic of a failed waistcoat and the breeches I made in the spirit of the design:

Awkward photo-self is awkward.

You can't see the waistband which is a pity, but there's a side metal zip with a double metal button closure, looks pretty damn good. Essentially what I did was take a pants pattern and traced it onto fabric with chalk. I then chalked in the breeches shape as I wanted it. I did the same thing for the back pattern, except I used the front pattern again and just freehanded the structural differences. I'm rubbish at patterning so my next attempt, which was calculated, was visually shameful in comparison, however both had awkward fitting issues when I sat in them.

You get amazing compliments in these pants.

Capes: cape, half-cape and combination (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

Capes: cape, half-cape and combination (1897)

 







The coaching coat (with sleeve) (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

The coaching coat (with sleeve) (1897)




 

The melon sleeve (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

The melon sleeve (1897)



 

The double-breasted coat (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

The double-breasted coat (1897)



The new bishop sleeve (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

The new bishop sleeve (1897)






 

The leg of mutton sleeve (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

The leg of mutton sleeve (1897)




 

Tuesday, 17 December 2013

Double-breasted jacket (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

Double-breasted jacket (1897)





 

The balloon sleeve (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

The balloon sleeve (1897)





 

One-seam sleeve (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

One-seam sleeve (1897)





 

The principles of sleeve cutting (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

The principles of sleeve cutting (1897)





 

Double-breasted cutaway jacket (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

Double-breasted cutaway jacket (1897)





 

Double-breasted vest (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

Double-breasted vest (1897)

 

 


I made this one myself. It really is a vest, one that really ends at your waist. Also the shoulder seam is really interesting, it doesn't sit like modern designs, it's more on the back side. I battled a lot with the instructions, I often cannot understand the terms used and their meaning is often taken for granted, so a vague understanding of what measurement is needed can be useful.

Jacket and Vest (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

Jacket and Vest (1897)

 The sleeve block will be posted separately.




 

Fancy waist (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

The fancy waist (1897)



 

Double-breasted frock (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

The double-breasted frock (1897)




 

Basque (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

Basque

 


 

The Dress Bodice (1897)

Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments (1897)

The Dress Bodice (1897)